The Dbottino Weblog

There are plenty of mosquito products we can use to get rid of these nasty insects. Some of them are effective some are not. I guess we all own one of these mosquito products at home, but have you ever wondered how they work or are they hazardous for you health? So lets see what kind of mosquito products are out there and how safe they are.


Mosquito products could be classified in two categories based on their purpose. So there are in the first category are the mosquito products that kill the insects and in the second one we’ve got the products that repels mosquitoes. The products grouped in these two categories there are indoor and outdoor mosquito products.

To understand how these mosquito products work we must understand what attracts mosquitoes. So when humans and animals exhale, they give off CO2 (carbon dioxide) and other scents. Mosquitoes have sensors that can detect the presence of these chemicals at a distance of over 100 feet. Once the mosquito picks up the scent, they will immediately change direction and fly rapidly toward the intended victim. So the purpose of mosquito products would be either to attract and kill the insect or to deceive its senses.

In the fist category of mosquito products would be bug zappers and mosquito magnets. An electric bug-zapper works by attracting insects to a central ultraviolet light, surrounded by a lethal electrical grid so when the mosquito touches that grid gets burned. The best in this mosquito products category, would be the old mosquito magnet the most high-tech (and expensive) weapon in the homeowner’s arsenal of mosquito products, made by American Biophysics Corporation. It uses propane to emit carbon dioxide, just as people do, which is one of the things that helps mosquitoes find you. Once mosquitoes are lured to the device, they are sucked into a trap where they dehydrate and die. So these would be about all the mosquito products that have the purpose to lure, trap and kill the mosquitoes.

In the second category of mosquito products are the repellents. They work by blocking the receptors on mosquitoes antennae for the: moisture, warmth CO2 (carbon dioxide) and odor produced by humans that are all attractants for mosquitoes. Even if it is a spray or an ointment the best repellent is DEET.

DEET (diethyl toluamide) was developed in Orlando in the 1950s and contains a synthetic chemical repellent. The mosquito products marketed today contain various concentrations of DEET some of them even to 100 percent witch is not so good for your skin. Mosquito products containing 5 percent to 7 percent DEET keep mosquitoes away for up to 2 1/2 hours.

Citronella, which is also part of this second mosquito products category, is a volatile, liquid oil derived from dried cultivated grasses. It works by repelling animals and insects without harming or killing them. It has a distinctive odor, which also repels certain animals. Oil of Citronella is considered so unlikely to cause harmful effects that some citronella products are exempt from the usual regulation. The mosquito products containing citronella come in the form of candles, cartridges, and rub-on products.

These would be the most important mosquito products available on the market today some of them effective some less effective but I think that the most important thing is weather they are safe for you, your family and your loved ones.

Raul Gallu is the author of
http://control-home-mosquitos.blogspot.com

- a website full of information for those who got tired of mosquitoes and wanna do something to get rid of them.

This article is designed to show why the water we’re drinking is bad for us, since it is highly unlikely that the urban water filters that are in place can filter out all of the little contaminants that are present in the water. Those contaminants are listed as part of the effects of urbanization on our water.

These contaminants will acidify the water once they begin to decompose and therefore you will end up drinking acidic water which pushes your already high level of acidity even higher. All of these industrial pollutants, caused by the industrial traffic can be filtered out by water ionizers and leave you with pure water to cleanse your body with.

Waterborne pathogens

Waterborne pathogens can be disease-inducing protozoans, viruses or bacteria that are absorbed by a person when they drink unprocessed or insufficiently treated water. There are two main protozoans which are receiving media coverage lately and they are Giardia and Cryptosporidium. Consumption of those can result in grievous problems within the digestive system, which could possibly be life-threatening for those people who are either very young or very old or those with impaired immune systems.

A large number of cities regularly examine urban streams to determine the level of certain bacteria within them, which have similar origins to the waterborne pathogens, although they are not detrimental. The sources are waste from humans or animals. The nontoxic bacteria therefore perform the role of indicators to alert the monitors of the likely occurrence of other bacteria that are unsafe. The water coming out of wastewater treatment plants which has been treated is also screened for these bacteria. Additionally, in some larger cities additional testing of drinking water has started.

Heavy Metals:

The deposits of various toxic metals have a tendency to accrue within the food chain and they can damage living organisms. Previously, the majority of toxic metal pollution originated from mining activities and individual sources, for instance wastewater-treatment plants and smoke-stack emissions. However, Federal and State regulations have resulted in the lowering of the level of toxic metal issuing from these sources. However metals have a predisposition to affix themselves to sediment and dirt, and therefore they are still ever-present within the banks and of beds many urban streams.

Pesticides

Pesticides are substances, either chemical or biological in nature, projected to manage pests, such as algae, insects, bacteria and weeds. Pesticides are used a great deal on arable land, but inside urban areas, it is mainly used on residential and commercial properties. However when storms hit, the rains runoff from both yards and roadsides and carry dangerous pesticides into local streams, where they may injure aquatic life and enter drinking-water supply intakes.

The results show that pesticides are prevalent within streams and ground water sampled within agricultural and urban areas of the Nation. As anticipated, the substances that have been heavily utilized are the substances that are discovered most often. They occur in geographic and regular patterns that mostly match the allocation of land use and the associated use of pesticide. The rate of recurrence of pesticide contamination, however, is far greater than predicted. At the very least one pesticide was found in almost every sample of water and fish composed from streams and in about one-half of all wells sampled. In addition the individual substances were rarely found alone, the majority of the fish samples from streams and about half of all samples from wells with a measurable pesticide contained two and sometimes more pesticides.

If you use water ionizers you will receive the pure alkaline water that your body really needs. The ionizer will counteract all the impurities that have been put in the water during the course of urbanization. The ionizer as a tool to counteract the affect of urbanization on our water has become more and more essential as time has passed and the condition of our water has decreased.

Water ionizers help us to counteract the effects of urbanization on us and especially on our water. These appliances will help us to cleanse and purify the bodies that have been badly affected by the process of urbanization, mostly due to the deterioration in the state of our water. The switch to ionized water from plain tap water is becoming increasingly necessary if we are to live healthy lives in this urban age.

All water ionizer information has been researched and written by Lyle Robertson.
Quality Water Ionizers

Feng Shui is an ancient Chinese art, where placement of objects in a room depends on the movement of chi or natural energy of our environment. Based on the patterns of nature, a Feng shui master will tell us where to place every individual object in our home or workplace. A master will also provide advice on how a building should be positioned on a property. Feng Shui shows us how to support the flow of energy in our lives for better health and prosperity.

The best location for a bedroom, according to Feng Shui is in the rear of the home. This is where it is said that all “restful” energy lies. In order to preserve this energy the bedroom should have only one door connecting it to the rest of the house. It is best that the bedroom is not located over a garage. If it is, to preserve a restful sleep, one must use heavy solid objects on the floor or hang a mirror on the garage ceiling so that it will reflect the image of the car away from the bedroom. If a kitchen is located over the bedroom, place a mirror on the ceiling of the bedroom reflecting downward, sealing off the bustling activities occurring in the kitchen.

There should always be a door connecting the bedroom and the bathroom, and the door should always be kept closed. Feng Shui recommends not having a television in the bedroom as it causes less interactions between couples. If one is present, it should be covered when not in use. A work station in the bedroom is also discouraged as is exercise equipments because these release opposite energies than that of restful energy.

Mirrors in a bedroom can be a problem as they are said to reflect one’s negative energy when one is sleeping, thereby causing nightmares. This principle applies to any object that reflects like paintings, computer screens or metal surfaces.

Feng Shui recommends that a person sleep with legs facing away from the door because such a position is referred to as the “coffin” position. Colors in the bedroom should be subtle, as should the colors of bedroom furniture. Clean up clutter in the bedroom including closets for good energy.

Bedrooms are rooms to go to for peace and relaxation. To distract negative energy Feng Shui encourages a good circulation of natural energy and plenty of fresh air.

Bedrooms provides detailed information about bedrooms, bedroom furniture, bedroom sets, bedroom accessories, and more. Bedrooms is the sister site of Carpet Cleaning Machines.

Tips and advise when buying your bathroom suite: (part 1)

POTTERY:

Also known as sanitary ware, ceramics, porcelain and ware.
There are four basic areas that affect the quality of pottery and its expected lifespan:
The depth of the glaze:
The glaze is the glass-like surface coating which is fired onto the pottery in the kiln when it is made.
The glass enables the pot to be waterproof and protects it from chemicals, such as bleach etc, over its life.
The thicker the glaze generally the longer the life. Once this glaze goes, wears out, the pot becomes porous, absorbs water and eventually cracks.
The more you use and clean the pottery the faster the glaze wears out.
To make the glaze thicker you have to apply it a layer at a time and each time fire it in the kiln. This process results in breakages within the kiln.

For example, if I fire 100 pieces of pot once I may get 99 back in one piece, so the 99 pays for the 100.
If I then fire the 99 again I may get 80 back in one piece, so now 80 have to pay for 100.
If I then fire the 80 I may get only 50 back in one piece, so now 50 have to pay for 100. You get the gist of this by now.
If you assume that each layer of glaze lasts approximately 5 to 7 years you can soon see how the system works.
If you glaze once you get a less expensive cost to manufacture but the product does not last as long in a house. The thicker the glaze the longer the pottery lasts.

Quality of the clay:

The quality of the clay that is used to make the pottery is very important.
The reason for this is that the finer the clay the smoother the finish will be on the item being made.
If you use a poorer grade of clay it will have more grit in it and the surface will have a more rippled appearance.
You may also find that because of the increased grit content the pottery is heavier than an item of the same size made with a finer grade of clay.
The finer the clay the more tonnes of rough clay you have to use to refine down to make it.
It is therefore less expensive to produce pottery with a coarse grade of clay.

The overspray or colour:

The white colour, or whatever colour it happens to be, is applied to the pottery before the glaze.
Each manufacturer mixes their own colour to try to match it to the colour of the acrylic baths.
The white colour of the acrylic bath is a worldwide standard set by the acrylic manufacturers.
You need to be aware of this if you client tries to mix and match pottery from different manufacturers.
Its usually acceptable to have a toilet and basin from one supplier made to match the bath but if you put a basin
from one supplier and a toilet from another and then the bath together it will stand out like a sore thumb.
The thicker the colour is applied, the less fading on the edges takes place and the colour is even over the whole of the item.
The colour as with the glaze is applied in layers and then has to be left to set before the next coat can be applied.
The fewer coats the quicker the product can be made and the less cost is involved.

The design of the item:

The more intricate the design the more expensive the mould is to make and the more chance there is that you will not always remove it from the mould without damage.
Plainer shapes are usually less expensive. You should also note that basins, toilets and bidets are made as matched sets.
You will often find that the foot of the pedestal on the basin matches the foot of the toilet pan and that the back of the basin matches the toilet cistern lid.

One general point to be made is that pottery is often sold in what is known in the trade as a four-piece set.
That is a basin, pedestal, pan and cistern. Unfortunately the retail customer sees the set as two pieces: the basin and the toilet.
If you use the term four-piece set to a retail customer they may think you mean a basin, toilet, bath and bidet.
So always explain what you mean by four pieces if you should choose to use the term.

PRODUCT TYPES:

TOILETS & WC’S:

There are five types of toilets currently available in the UK.
These are Wall hung, Back-to-wall, Close-coupled, Low level and High level.

Wall hung:

This type of toilet has the pan hanging on the wall and the cistern concealed in the wall behind it.
More common in mainland Europe, it has become increasingly popular over recent years as more people travel abroad.
You do however need to ensure that the pan is supported properly when fitted either by the use of special floor mounting brackets or the use of a framework.

These frameworks, which support the pan and provide a place for the cistern, are available from several suppliers.
This type of WC allows ease of cleaning and as the pan is the only visible piece of pot it minimises the impact of the WC on the design of the room.

Back to wall:

This type of toilet is normally used mainly when having fitted furniture. As with the wall hung toilet the cistern is concealed inside the furniture but the pan is sat on the floor.

Close coupled:

This is the most common type of toilet in the UK. This type of toilet has the pan and cistern joined together.
It is often confused with the low level toilet, so make sure you are clear that you mean a toilet with the pan and cistern physically joined together.

The advantage of this type is that the pan has a splash back built onto it where it joins the cistern, so that when men and boys stand at the toilet and miss there is not so much mess.
Toilets are meant to be sat on not stood against. If you want to stand up you should buy a urinal. This toilet is easily maintained and is therefore ideal for downstairs cloakrooms and main ensuites where they are likely to get a lot of use.

Low level:

This type of toilet has a freestanding pan and the cistern sits approx 900mm or 36inches up the wall with a short flush pipe in between the two pieces.

Before the advent of the close-coupled toilet this was the most common and is still what most people with older houses have.
This is why they confuse them with the close coupled. They are now most commonly sold with traditional bathrooms and have a chrome or gold flush pipe.

The difficulty with this type is that if men or boys use them they are apt to miss and the pipe goes green.
Once this happens there is nothing that can be done to repair it. They are generally priced at 50% to 60% higher in price than a close coupled and are bought more for their aesthetic value than practicality.

High Level:

This type was popular in the Victorian era and is associated most closely with bathrooms of that period.
The pan is free standing and the cistern sits on the wall approx 1800mm or 6 feet up the wall with a chrome or gold flush pipe and a chain pull flush.
It has the same disadvantages as the Low level when used by men and boys.
In terms of price, this type is normally 50% to 60% more than the Low level. Sold mainly for the aesthetic value, all toilets in the UK now have to flush using 3 and 6 litres of water.
It makes no difference which type you buy, they all use this amount and as a consequence the high level and low level flush no better than the close coupled.

TYPES OF FLUSHING MECHANISM

There are two main types of flushing mechanisms: the syphon and the dump valve.

Syphons:

Syphons have been used for many years in the UK as the means of flushing the toilet. They work with the use of a lever or pull chain.
When this is pushed a small amount of water is forced over the syphon in the cistern, which creates inertia that draws the rest of the water along with it and flushes the toilet.

They are very effective with high levels of water in the cistern but become less efficient as the water level falls.
In the past toilet cisterns originally contained 12 litres of water, then 9 litres and now 6 litres for a full flush and 3 litres for a half flush .

People who now have a 6 litre flushing syphon type toilet often complain that they have to flush the toilet twice to get it to work.

Dump valves:

In recent years dump valves were not allowed in the UK, but with the advent of new legislation they are now fitted in most new toilets.
The dump valve works by means of a push button, either a single or a double one. As you press the button it lifts a valve that instantly releases all the water down through the toilet.
This makes this type of flushing mechanism very effective with low levels of water.

Overflows:

Most old types of toilet have an overflow which let the water flow outside the property if the ball valve mechanism fails. This is called a visible overflow.

Most new types of toilet have an overflow which flows back into the toilet bowl if the ball valve fails. This makes them easier to install. This is called an internal overflow.

BASINS (sinks)

Basins are often referred to as sinks. This is incorrect. Sinks are fitted in kitchens and basins are fitted in cloakrooms, bathrooms and ensuites.

The term basin came from the use of a jug and basin in the days when these were used to wash yourself in the bedroom. There are six main type of basin available in the UK.

These are basin and full pedestal, basin and semi-pedestal, cloakroom, semi-recessed, counter top and under-slung.

Basin and full pedestal:

This where the basin sits on full size pedestal and is the most common type in the UK. Normally the waste pipe and hot and cold water pipes run through the pedestal and into the floor.

Basin and semi-pedestal:

This is where the basin sits on a half height pedestal which does not reach the floor. They are very common in Europe and becoming increasingly popular in the UK.

When recommending this type of unit care should be taken to ensure that you have the type of pipe work arrangement necessary to install the basin. Please consult your local plumber or bathrooms installer for more advice.

Cloakroom:

These are usually fitted without a pedestal, as they are normally very small basins. There are some available with pedestals but you are best to check first. Wall hung basins are normally fitted with a decorative bottle trap.

Semi-recessed

This type of basin has a bow in the front but the underside has been cut away to produce a flat area. This is because this type of basin is usually fitted into a worktop.

Counter top:
This type of basin is either round or oval and fits into a hole cut into a worktop.

Under slung

The type of basin is fitted under the hole in the worktop. This means that the worktop has to be a solid surface material, such a marble or stone.

TAP HOLES:

Basins come with one, two or three tap holes.

One tap hole:

This type of basin uses a mono bloc mixer, which normally incorporates a pop-up waste. The water is controlled either by a lever on the tap or a separate hot and cold handle on either side of the spout.

Two tap hole:

The most common type of tap configuration has a separate hot and cold tap with a plug and chain waste. The hot tap is normally fitted on the left hand side of the basin.

Three tap hole:

There are two type of tap arrangement that can be fitted to this type of tap-hole arrangement. Either a three-hole mixer which is a hot and cold valve head and a separate spout, usually fitted with a pop up waste.
Or you could fit a pair of basin taps and what is known as a chain stay waste. A chain stay waste uses a plug and chain but the chain is held in place by a disc, which is fitted into the middle of the three holes

BIDETS:

Bidets are not that common in the UK as we are not normally raised to use them. However for those that do have and use them there are a few points to consider.

For a bidet to work effectively they have to be fitted next to a toilet-not at the other side of the room or several feet away.

A UK bidet now come with the tap fitted on the top and is usually a mono bloc mixer. There used to be bidets in the UK, which came with an up-spray or fountain spray as it was known.
This type of bidet is no longer available.

BATHS:

There are four main types of material used to manufacture baths in the UK. These are cast iron, pressed-steel, glass reinforced plastic (GRP) and acrylic.

Cast Iron:

This is the material from which most baths used to be made and is now most commonly used for free standing baths. There are two commonly held misconceptions concerning cast iron baths.

The first is that they are too heavy. The weight of a standard cast iron bath filled with water is in the region of 25 stones. The bath is usually fitted with four legs which means that the weight on each leg on the floor is approximately 6.25 stones.

As we walk across the floor foot to foot we actually weight more that this.
The second misconception is that they are cold. This is because years ago when we all used cast iron baths the houses did not have central heating. The bath can only reflect the temperature of the room that it is in.
If the room is warm the bath is therefore warm. There is, however, one possible exception. If the bath is fitted in with a panel as apposed to free standing it may be that the air temperature under the bath is cooler due to the holes left by the plumber. If this is the case, insulation under the bath will solve the problem.

Pressed Steel:

This is where a layer of steel several millimetres thick is coated with a stove-enamelled surface. They are most commonly used in hotels and commercial premises.

As the material of the bath is very thin they tend to cool down very quickly. They also tend to be very plain in shape due to the manufacturing restrictions of the material.

Glass Reinforced Plastic (GRP) :

This was the first type of plastic material used to produce baths and was used by almost everyone until the invention of Acrylic.
It has very good insulation properties and enables baths of many shapes and styles to be easily produced.

The two main difficulties with this material are as follows:

1. As the colour for the bath is produced in batches there can sometimes be problems with the match to the pottery.

2. If the bath is fitted in direct sunlight they are prone to the plasticiser leaking out of the surface and crazing of the surface texture occurring.

Acrylic:

This is the most common material now used to produce baths in the UK and Europe. It has the same characteristics as GRP in that it insulates well and can produce great shapes.

However, as it is produced to internationally agreed standards of colour it is now what every pottery supplier uses to obtain their colour match.
Acrylic comes in several thicknesses most commonly 3mm, 5mm, 8mm and 10mm. There is a common misconception that the thicker the acrylic the stronger the bath.

This is not so. The acrylic is there only to hold the colour and maintain a waterproof barrier. You will normally find that the thicker the acrylic the plainer the style of the bath.

The strength of the bath comes from the glass-reinforced plastic, which is sprayed on the underside of the bath. You should always look for a full encapsulated baseboard.

This is where the chipboard base that supports the bottom of the bath is fully enclosed to prevent it from coming away after a few years of use.
The sides of the bath should also be reinforced to prevent them from bowing out when the bath is filled with water.

If the bath does bow out in the middle the result is often that the top ledge will drop producing a gap between the tiles and the bath.

BATH SIZES AND SHAPES:

There are a multitude of bath shapes and sizes available in the UK at present but they break down into several groups.

Rectangular baths - Single Ended:

This is the most common style of bath with the taps at one end and is ideal for one person to bathe in on there own as it usually has a gentle back slope which offers good back support when relaxing.

The most common size is 1700 x 700. They are however produced in sizes ranging from 1200 x 750 to 2000 x 1200. When a client comes in saying that there bath is 1680 x 680 this is usually because they do not realize that the bath is fitted into the plaster work when installed so that a bath that is 1700 x 700 straight out of the box is often small when fitted.

Rectangular baths - Double Ended:

This type of bath is common with people who prefer to bathe with a partner as the taps are mounted in the middle of the bath. They are becoming a lot more popular in the UK.
However to make extra room for the two people the two back slopes on the bath can often be at quite a severe angle and therefore make the bath less comfortable for one person to lie out.
Once again they come in a multitude of sizes, from 1700 x 750 to 2000 x 1200.

Corner baths:

There are two mains types of corner bath: equal sided and offset, where one side is longer than the other. Two equal sided corner baths are usually available 1100 x 1100, 1200 x 1200, 1300 x 1300, 1400 x 1400 and 1500 x 1500.

The first three sizes are more commonly used as shower baths as the bathing area is too small for most people to use effectively. The 1400 and 1500 are big enough to use by most people for bathing.
The offset corner baths are usually available in two sizes 1500 x 900 and 1500 x 1000. They are not very effective as a bath for most people less than 5 feet 4 inches tall due to the internal length.
They are available with or without a seat in the corner.

Shower Baths (Ophelia, Ianthe):

These baths have a larger area at one end to allow for more room for showering. They are usually supplied with a bath screen made especially for the shape of the bath.

Space Saver baths:

These baths are made to a special shape usually thinner at one end to allow for more room to fit furniture or make more room for pottery or even a shower cubicle.

Written by Neal Baker on behalf of http://www.bathroomsensuite.com and
http://www.bathroom-furnitureuk.co.uk,
online retailers of bathroom furniture, bathroom suites and bathroom accessories in the UK.

If you have radiant heat and are planning a ceramic floor tile installation, then understanding the function of membranes will certain be beneficial. This article will teach you about various membranes in conjunction with radiant heat, so that your floor tile installation will be done properly.

There have been many tragic ceramic floor tile installation disasters by using the wrong membranes or none at all. If the membranes and/or bonding mortars are not compatible your bond will be lost and problems will occur.

With a floor tile installation make sure your membranes meet current ANSI standards and that manufacturers instructions are followed properly.

With floor tile installations, membranes are used for a variety of reasons, each having a specific purpose, such as moisture vapor emission membranes, cork underlay, peel and stick membranes and liquid or trowel applied membranes.

A load bearing, bonded, uncoupling membrane is also a full coverage membrane, but it’s made of thicker material than the anti-fracture membrane. The air cavities that are pressed into its surface allow for lateral movement.

A cleavage membrane is not bonded to the concrete. The function of this membrane is to separate the tile assembly from the concrete and isolate the wire-reinforced mortar bed and the ceramic floor tile installation from any instability in the wood or concrete sub-floor.

A crack isolation membrane is bonded to the sub-floor to cover existing shrinkage cracks and must cover three times the width of the floor tile used, with a minimum width of 6 inches.

An anti-fracture membrane is also bonded to the sub-floor, but this membrane needs to fully cover the sub-floor in order to protect against shrinkage, moisture and expansion and/or contraction of the concrete.

With a radiant heat system a moisture barrier is important in controling moisture and stoping liquid from passing through. Always consider all of the options, because the improper use of a membrane may trap moisture and cuase condensation.

Just remember that when you’re doing a ceramic floor tile installation make sure that you use the correct membrane especially if you have in-floor radiant heating otherwise you could end up with cracked tile and grout and an expensive repair bill.

Larry Lang is the founder of Radiant Heating Disasters which specializes in consulting of hydronic in-floor radiant heating systems. Larry is also author of Radiant Heat - What You NEED to Know BEFORE You Sign That Contract. This article may be distributed freely on your website, as long as this entire article, including working links and this resource box are unchanged. Copyright 2006 Larry Lang All rights Reservered Lang Enterprises Inc. www.radiantheatingdisasters.com

Decorating a baby room is a wonderful opportunity to create a carefree hideaway - a place of slumber and lullabies.

BABY ROOM THEMES…

From Tropical Jungle to Noah’s Ark, Teddy Bears to Winnie the Pooh: There are many delightful baby room themes to choose from - any one will spark enthusiasm and generate exciting nursery decorating ideas.

But decorating the baby room can be daunting: There’s so much choice - nursery bedding sets, furnishings, nursery wall décor and accessories of all kinds! Also young children can soon outgrow even the most enchanting baby room themes.

NURSERY DCOR…

Co-ordinated nursery bedding sets and matching accessories can make easy work of decorating a baby room, ensuring nursery décor is effective and harmonious.

But mixing and matching presents the opportunity for more imaginative nursery decorating ideas - and it’s fun! The key to success with ‘mix and match’ nursery décor is to select elements - baby nursery pictures, fabrics and accessories - that share color and pattern elements.

Basing nursery décor on neutral wall and floor coverings enables endless variations: Keeping baby room decorating ideas flexible makes it easy to adapt to a young child’s developing interests.

By changing just the accessories - nursery bedding sets, pictures and rugs - different nursery decorating ideas can be developed without all the upheaval of a major redecorating project. For a while, at least, baby room themes can grow with your child!

COLOR SCHEMES…

Young children love bright primary colors but large areas can be overwhelming. Decorating the baby room with a subtle, calm color scheme is usually a better choice. Introducing warm colors - rose, peach or primrose - into your baby room decorating ideas will help create a feeling of coziness.

While decorating the baby room with the cool colors - aqua, mint or sky blue - can create a feeling of spaciousness. But it is probably best to keep ideas based on this color range for a room with a warm, sunny aspect.

Touches of bright primary colors bring extra interest and visual stimulation. Introducing just small amounts with baby nursery pictures, nursery bedding sets, toys and accessories can transform a room. These are the finishing touches that can bring nursery décor alive!

NURSERY WALL DCOR…

From a series of framed art prints to big cheerful posters, a collage of birthday cards to giant stick-ups - nursery wall décor can create an interesting focus and highlight of color.

A special picture may provide inspiration for some great baby nursery ideas and the basis for a subtle color scheme.

Pictures can be used to develop baby room themes, giving them added dimension: Baby nursery pictures of animals can extend a Tropical Jungle theme - Paddington Bear pictures a Teddy Bear theme.

Look for baby nursery pictures that you find inspiring - they can be a valuable source for interesting nursery decorating ideas. But, best of all, good nursery wall décor will help to create a special place that excites whimsical fantasy and imaginative storytelling - the essence of a magical childhood!

About The Author

Writer and designer of elementary educational materials with particular interest in art education. Webmaster of www.NurseryPosters.com

suzanne@takingwing.co.uk

If you are debating whether wooden flooring is right for your home it’s important that you understand what the wooden flooring terms refer to. There are huge array of online flooring retailers, and its important to understand there are multiple factors which determine how wood looks, and makes each wooden floor look unique. There is a very slim chance that the wooden floor you saw in the showroom or on the internet will look exactly the same as the final product in your home.

Part of the appeal of hardwood floors is that they are all unique. One factor which effects the appearance of the wood is how near the wood is to the bark of the tree, this is named sapwood. The closer to the outside of the tree, the paler the wood will appear. The grain of the wood is another major factor, this can vary is direction and also changes in appearance depending on the colour of the wood fibers. The growth rings of the tree are also a significant factor which effect the appearance of the wood. Tightly packed layers of wood are likely to result in a darker colour, these are formed when only a marginal layer of wood is added per year during a growing season. Other factors which can have an effect on the wood are mineral Streaks. These occur when trace elements are in the water, resulting in grey and olive markings. Knots are also a big factor in the appearance of your flooring, and are produced where branches of a tree have been encased, as the tree has grown. Often lower grade flooring will have more knots in it than higher grade.

The great thing about wooden flooring is its durability, and also the ease with which damage can be repaired. But because it is a natural product, as opposed to an artificial one, it is also prone to expand and contract during changes in the weather or season. This needs to be taken into account when your floor is fitted.

Many household products can function well in areas quite different from their initial intended uses. Here are a few examples:

Icy Steps?
If you live in an area that freezes during the winter, here’s a tip for keeping your front steps from getting icy. Just take a bowl of hot water, add a few drops of Dawn dishwashing liquid to it. Once you’ve poured that mixture over the steps, they won’t freeze again. (Of course, this trick may work with other dishwashing liquids, as well. You’ll need to do some experimenting to find that out for yourself.)

Is your roof growing?
Sprinkling powdered laundry detergent on your roof can kill moss, but it won’t kill other things, even when the next rain leeches it down the downspout during the next summer shower. If you happen to see bubbling at the bottom of your downspouts, don’t panic. It’s just the detergent being washed off the roof, and it’s generally harmless to the environment.

Budding Artists?
If your children have decided to use the bedroom walls to create their latest crayon masterpieces, you’ll get excellent results by dipping a damp rag into baking soda and then using that mixture to scrub it off. It won’t be easy, but you can do it–assuming you’re willing to work at it–and it’s cheaper than repainting the room.

Along those same lines, if your kids should use appliances or kitchen countertops as canvases for artwork instead of their bedroom walls, and their medium of choice is permanent marker, you’ll find that dipping a paper towel in rubbing alcohol will take it off. Like the walls, this mixture needs to be combined with a liberal dose of elbow grease.

Sticky Price Tags?
Another commercial product that’s found in most people’s homes, WD-40, can serve double duty as a cleaner, as well. It can be used it to remove the pesky glue that’s so hard to get off when you peel labels or price tags off of plastic items. Just spray it on and rub it back off. It works like a charm, without harming the plastic itself.

Streaky Windows?
Here’s a tip for washing windows: if you’re washing both the inside and outside, try using vertical strokes for one side of the window and horizontal ones for the other. That way, you’ll instantly be able to tell which side a streak is one. Instead of expensive window cleaners, you can use vinegar for outside windows. Using old sheets of newspaper also can minimize streaking. When you decide to tackle the window washing chore, do it on a cloudy day. You’ll experience less streaking and less frustration, because the windows won’t dry as quickly when the sun isn’t blazing down.

Copyright © 2006 Jeanette J. Fisher

Achieve that interior designer’s high-end look for less. Jeanette Joy Fisher teaches five ways to makeover your home for happiness. Free interior design info: www.designpsych.com

If you’re tired of the same old bed linens, did you know that top-quality linens are not reserved exclusively for the wealthy? It’s amazing what the retail market can offer you in the way of fine, luxury linen and mink blankets. You can find many world-class manufacturers of pillow cases, duvet covers, sheets, wholesale fleece blankets and many other bed-related items. A company that supplies the finest hotels in the world, including luxury ocean liners and first-class trains with luxurious bedding, is called Frette. This great company uses Swiss and Egyptian cotton fashion for all of their first-class bed linens and caters to people who like to treat themselves to the absolute best. They even carry a line of baby bedding and apparel and you can find their stores around the world.

An Italian company called Bellino Fine Linens offers exquisite, damask-patterned sheets, along with special embroidery, hemstitched borders and jacquard motifs. Or, if you’re a real fan of cotton, this company prides itself on producing the finest cashmere, cotton, and silk fabrics from around the world. They offer pillows, curtains, bed-skirts, table linens, bed linens, duvet covers, shawls, and throws. Based in Vermont, USA, the company is called Anichini. They manufacture top-quality, Italian yarns and are adapted for both commercial and home use, even for slipcovers for your sectional sofa.

Are you looking for a 500-thread count Egyptian cotton sheets? Or, how about fashion bedcoverings or matelasse covers? A company by the name of Peacock Allen can offer you traditional white and natural linens that they coordinate with charming pastels and lively prints. Another Italian company called Pratesi has a retail distribution network around the world and manufactures table linens, bed linens, blankets, duvet covers, baby apparel, and beach apparel. You’ll love their classic sheets, pillow cases and bed covers that are highlighted with colorful prints, stripes, and smart checks. And finally, Yves Delorme is one of the oldest textile manufacturers in France and prides itself with the finest quality and attention to detail that is found in all of its products. Established in 1845, they have a beautiful, bedding line of Egyptian cotton or woven jacquards, and with stunning embroidery on a lot of their items. Whatever your taste is, why not treat yourself today!

The property you are considering buying has the potential to make you a lot of money. Only it has one major problem, and this problem is the reason you are able to buy this property at such a bargain. The problem is odor, odor left behind by a host of pets and tobacco smoke.

Should you seal or paint the floors and walls to trap the odors? Will that solve the problem for you? Unfortunately, the answer is no.

Sealers are intended to block stains on walls from bleeding through and staining new paint applied to a wall. They are not designed to seal or block gases (odors) from escaping or passing through. Some-but not most-paints do produce a continuous membrane finish that is not gas permeable. Consider, however, that only one of many sides of an object like a piece of drywall or flooring is being painted, this approach offers limited odor control and success.

Both fire and tobacco smoke are exceptions. But even long-term contamination of walls and ceilings with tobacco smoke can be sealed in only after most of the tobacco tars have been washed away with Tri-Sodium Phosphate (TSP).

Sealing urine odors into flooring can work on sheet flooring, but a careful analysis of the process reveals some serious flaws. Sealing sheet flooring actually reduces the amount of water and water vapor getting to the urea salt (produced by the urine residue) so that the salt does not produce the odor in the form of mercaptan gas.

When the floor is put back in to service, however, small movements of the surface caused by occupant traffic and furniture will cause the sealers to crack and leak water vapor in and mercaptan gas out. The cracks are large enough to allow water vapor and mercaptan gas to escape, but too small to allow OdorXit and water liquid to get in to work on the urea salt. Also, floor boards have six sides. Sealing one side is not enough to fix the problem.

Using sealers or paint to seal concrete floors is more effective, but most sealers and paint are gas permeable. Additionally, scratches and wear spots in the sealer or paint will cause mercaptan gas to leak past the seal again, creating the problem mentioned above.

Heavily contaminated wood and concrete flooring present yet another problem. When the urea salt gets wet from water drawn from the wood or concrete, it expands and will actually lift sealers and paint off the floor. When these blisters burst, the odor returns.

So if sealing and painting doesn’t work, what does?

OdorXit.

Although OdorXit does not completely eliminate tobacco smoke, it does reduce the odor substantially when mixed with TSP or used after TSP has been used to clean the offending walls and ceilings.

OdorXit products completely eliminate the odor from urine residue. All OdorXit products work well on a wide range of surfaces and odors because they actually neutralize or absorb the substances that are causing the odors. They do so without enzymes, bacteria, perfumes or harsh chemicals. They are also non-staining, non-toxic and biodegradable.

Consequently, OdorXit is the ultimate odor solution.

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Martin R Meyer is the President of Listening Systems, Inc., and OdorXit is the registered trademark of Listening Systems. Their mission is to provide the highest quality, safest odor-control products at a reasonable price and to offer the best available advice on solving odor problems, even if you don’t use their products. Visit http://www.odorxit.com for a full list of OdorXit products as well as valuable information on solving a wide range of odor problems.